You have to know how to determine a fake Yeezy shoe since the price is way up there in the stratosphere. There’re a lot of Feezy’s going around. If you want to be 100% sure you have an authentic pair then the sites like StockX and GOAT are your links for piece of mind (be prepared to spend an arm and a leg though). But if you’re pinching pennies, or don’t want to spend the rent money on a fresh pair of Yeezy’s, you still have to know how to authenticate V2’s in the local and resale market.
If you only have pictures or photos to go off of, you hve to be aware that there won’t be a way to really check everything. Pictures are very general and don’t provide the close ups and zoomed in detail shots that are really needed. Those selling replicas will rely on this. Legit resellers and retailers will go to extra lengths to make sure that their shoe’s unique details are seen easily.
V2’s usually originated from either StockX or GOAT, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t still do a legit check. Not discounting the fact that a fraud seller or replica seller could have saved the card and tag from StockX or card and box wrapper from StockX or GOAT and transferred his or her fakes into this set up. However, it’s some comfort to see either of the two’s packaging. It’s a good sign.
Legit checking the Boost 350 V2’s is tricky because there are so many pieces that are not uniform across the board on all Yeezy Boosts. Some V2s don’t even have the UPC sticker, some come without the stuffing for the shoe, and other variations. Not everyone is a collector and in that way they might not value small things such as that, so they could’ve been tossed right away after purchase.
The man should be centered, and the box label starts at the E.
Adidas logo on the bottom should definitely be centered. The paper that the shoes were wrapped in should also have a semi shininess to it. Stuffing for the shoe is closer to white.
Some V2s come with an APE Final sticker inside the Box. Please note though that these “accessories” are good pointers that the box itself and accessories are Legit, but this isn’t a guarantee that the shoe itself is.
Shape of the Shoe
The shape of the shoe is important to be familiar with. With the sole, the shape seems to increase going towards the heel. The curve in the back is more pronounced than front though. Fugazi Yeezys usually have the proportion all jacked. The signature prime knit is supposed to be very tight and almost wraps up and inward from the sole. Fitting ought to be to be tight and form fitting. There shouldn’t be much slack in the shoe on your foot. If you see baggy or any loose prime knit around the bottom sole, it’s a Feezy and not a Yeezy.
Then there is the so-called Kim-K bump that is manifest at the end of the heel where the prime knit and rubber sole meet. If it doesn’t have it, then no, my friend – they are definitely not authentic.
On Black Striped V2’s some sizes will have the dots near the bottom of the prime knit mostly in smaller sizes. If you run your hands down the middle stitching onto the sole, make sure that you feel the stitching bump underneath the rubber sole. Fakes usually have a shoe that has a sole rising too high, and the stitching bump underneath the rubber sole isn’t there.
Again, it varies with the shoe. The Oreo V2 and Beluga V2 Adidas logo placement should be in a perfect straight line with the insole, and not have the R damn near infused with the logo. See to observe a thickness or a spacing of the indentation around the Adidas logo itself. The YH number on legit V2s will run parallel with the insole. With Cream V2s and Beluga V2s the 3 zig zags will be on all insoles.
Always make sure the UPC and Style codes match up with the box.
“YEEZY BOOST 350 V2” Lettering ends before the barcode, whereas all other boxes for V2 are after the barcode. All inside tags on the Creams will have a small dot in the right corner above the adidas scan code.
Zebra OG V2’s inside tag will have a small dot centered above the adidas scan code.
Zebra Restock V2’s inside tag will have a small dot in the right top corner above the adidas scan code. Production date will also be either 2/17 or 3/17.
Concerning the “Male/Male” text. It should be just a tad more forward than the size. Fakes the “Male/Male” will be sticking out too far and look shoddy. Ensure that your codes match up, while you’re at it.
Each size will have their own variations. And even the same sizes will have minor variations. The main thing you want to focus on is the common similarities between them.
For Black Striped V2’s:
Back heel should almost resemble a pyramid shape. The fade for Black Stripe V2’s- the stripe starts to fade a touch after the stitching.
Beluga Heel fade:
Beluga heel fades are different from Black Striped V2’s. The heel fades right at the stitching, should see very little to no stripe past stitching.
Notice that the pull tab space is slightly different between sizes. Key thing to focus on is the placement of the pull tab for your size. Pull tab should be on a very slight angle, almost facing downward from the black stripe.
Zebra OG pull tab placement is critical – one of the easiest call outs is the pull tab – no fake has the placement perfect like the Retail. Zebra Restock Pull Tab is further back, in a lot of ways this will be more similar to the reps that have been floating around already. Also check inside tag to make sure if the pull tab is this far back it is the restock pair. No Zebra OG V2 has the placement this far back. In this way you can always tell when you have the OG Zebra V2, since no reps have the placement 1:1 // Zebra Restock ones do have their slight differences between OG vs Restock (which will be covered later).
Toe Box/Stripe Fade
Every size will have a particular toe box fade that will be the same for that particular size. Note how sz 9 and 10 have different patterns. The stars or fade pattern should almost go in a slight curve towards the middle stitching. The stripe should be fairly close to the middle stitching, curving very slightly at the 2nd lace running toward the middle stitching. Since each size has their own particular toe box fade pattern, I would suggest comparing the authentic pair’s pattern to the shoe in question. If you don’t have an authentic pair in hand, go to GOAT and look at their used sizes, you’ll be able to find your toe box pattern that way.
Beluga Stripe fade
Same with Belugas- since each size has their own particular toe box fade pattern, I would suggest comparing the authentic pair’s pattern to the shoe in question. If you don’t have an authentic pair in hand, go to GOAT and look at their used sizes, you’ll be able to find your toe box pattern that way.
Zebra OG vs Restock Comparison
Pull tab placement is one of the main differences between the two releases. In my opinion the OG Zebra placement was the nicest but not the most practical placement for pull tab, with the OG pair, the pull tab wraps the heel perfectly leaving barely any room to actually use the pull tab functionally. But aesthetically I love it.
You’ll also notice the lettering on the Zebra Restock is a shade or two lighter than the OG. The sole is slightly more white on the Restock pair as well. Toe box wise they’re the same.
The heel is a shade or two more yellow on the Restock Zebras.
Main thing to focus on is production date being different and the small dot above the adidas scan code is different as well between the two models.
Zebra OG // Zebra Restock UV Light
Always check to see if the toe box is milky. Along the sole, you should see the > pattern stripe clearly. Stitching around sock liner is clean and straight. Zebra OG and Zebra Restock (specifically the ones with the production date of 3/17) pull tab and sock liner lights up.
Zebra Restock with the production date of 2/17 does not have the sock liner and pull tab illuminating. (Photo cred: Aston Marcus)
Toe box, reps won’t light up between all the small details like retails. Zebra OG, 3 stripes and cloth on footbed do not light up. Boost and stitching does light up.
BELUGA indentation on SPLY 350
There are indentation variations after the SPLY-350. On Beluga sizes 9.5 and below the indentation is immediately after the SPLY-350. On Beluga sizes 10 and up the indentation is further back.
V2 Boost is different from V1. In fact, I would say the V2 silhouette in general is far more comfortable in comparison to V1. To the touch it should feel very smooth and soft, many describe the sensation like marshmallows. On your feet, you can understand why these are so sought after, hands down one of the most, if not the most comfortable shoes in our era.
Notice that you can almost see what I would call Boost “Fingerprints” (tiny dots inside the boost pellets), unlike the V1’s where the “Fingerprints” were far more defined and very prominent. The Boost on the V2’s should be soft and responsive when pressing into it. It’s a particular feeling, once you’ve felt the real thing it’s hard to forget.
Variation on Cream V2 Boost
I’ve never seen variation on Boost Pattern and the Boost itself, till the Cream V2 released, many have been saying their Boost Pattern is way off and the Boost itself looks squashed. My sz 9 does have these differences. I have four more pairs coming in 6, 7, 8, and 9.5 so I’ll be able to update you all if the Boost Pattern/Boost is inconsistent between all sizes. This could also be a result of production at such a high volume. The numbers were never officially released but many have confirmed that this particular model had the most production out of all the V2’s so far.
I call this the Light Test, this works on all V2’s and any shoes with Boost in them, even Ultraboost. I used my iPhone for this test, but you can use any flashlight as well. The color the light omits is irrelevant as that has to do with the color temperature of your light source.
Light should pass through freely, it should illuminate everything. Fakes will not be able to illuminate through the boost, it’ll only illuminate through the cracks/surroundings of the boost pellets. Light does not pass freely through the boost in fakes.
One of the important improvements they made in the V2’s is the heel support. Here is a simple test to do and makes it easy to call out fakes:
With one finger pull back the back tab of your V2. If you keep going you’ll notice your heel support does not collapse, and will hold up through this pressure. Fakes collapse with ease. I would need to use my whole hand to push down for the heel to even collapse the retail pair.